Perfumer Juliette Karagueuzoglou on Rose Renewable: An interview

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We challenged perfumer Juliette Karagueuzoglou to create a demo formula for a fine fragrance containing only renewable materials. The brief? Take an odor family perceived as difficult to achieve using renewable materials and make a fine fragrance that is commercially viable in terms of cost and regulatory –that smells beautiful!


The result is Rose Renewable: an open formula which includes some of our fantastic proprietary renewable scent molecules, naturals from IFF-LMR, and other molecules obtained from renewable feedstocks, demonstrating the power perfumers have to create fragrances using only renewable products.

Juliette Karagueuzoglou is a Senior Perfumer, based in our Paris creative center, who has been with IFF since 2002. After receiving her scientific baccalaureate and a degree in chemistry, she trained at ISIPCA. Below she shares her creative process for developing Rose Renewable.

IFF: Juliette, tell us why you chose rose as the theme for your creation?

Juliette: At present there are fewer renewable materials available in the floral family, meaning it is one of the biggest challenges in renewables. I wanted to work with both our renewables and our naturals.

IFF: Can you describe Rose Renewable for us?

Juliette: Rose Renewable is a floral, woody fragrance. On top it has a very petally, floral rosy character with a touch of pink pepper to make it bright. The heart is full of roses, with both Rose Essential LMR and Rose Absolute LMR, mixed with geranium which brings a fruity effect, stimulating the rose with vibrancy. In the back, there are creamy woods around cedarwood, which gives a lot of texture and some sensuality on the skin.

IFF: What were some of the issues in formulating Rose Renewable?

Juliette: It was tricky to find the molecules that could give the floralcy and femininity of the rose and keep the price at a commercial level. I had to work with a lot of our naturals – and the problem is that they can be quite costly!

IFF: Do you like the challenge of creating renewable formulas?

Juliette: It’s super interesting, it forces us perfumers to change the way we work - to create things differently and break lifetime-long habits. We are working to develop a bank of renewable references for ourselves. The more we practice, the more we become at ease with the specific challenges we face when we work on renewables. Experimenting and practicing gives us more experience and makes us more effective - but not only that, it makes us more creative and gives us more ideas.

IFF: How important do you think renewables are?

Juliette: More and more of the briefs we receive require a higher level of renewable ingredients. It’s an important consideration for our clients now, and I think that requirement will increase even more in the future. From our research, we know that consumer demand is evolving – customers are increasingly expecting that the products they use should be good for themselves and the planet. It is in the best interest for our trade, our customers and, ultimately - all of us, that businesses look at the most ethical and sensible ways to approach the creation of consumer products. As market leaders in renewable ingredients, we can help you create renewable fragrances in all applications.
 

Note: To explore our naturals and fragrance ingredients compendium, with over 500 renewable ingredients covering 9 odor families, visit us at www.iff.com/smell.

Follow #RenewxIFF to learn more about our renewable ingredients and perfumer Juliette Karagueuzoglou on Instagram @juliettekara_eyeofanose

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